Storing Vintage
Storing vintage properly is essential. Below I’ve detailed some of my recommendations*, but I default to the professionals for more in depth information. See links at the bottom of this page.
Supplies I use
Vintage lingerie / handkerchief bags
Padded hangers
Velour hangers
Acid free tissue paper: buffered and unbuffered
Archival boxes
Cotton garment bags
Pantry Moth Traps
Short Term Storage / Rotational Wear Collection
(In your closet / drawers)
Closets:
Vintage that can be hung for long periods of time on hangers should be done so with the appropriate hanger considering fabric and weight of the garment. For sturdy and lightweight pieces I use velour hangers. These have the added benefit of giving you more space in your closet but due to the thin top edge I would check to see how pieces hold up on them periodically. For delicate fabrics, I would always use padded hangers. For anything heavily beaded or fragile do not hang. Store it carefully in an archival box or drawer. & do I really have to say this? Never wire hangers, and I say no to plastic hangers as well. Also, no hangers with metal clips. You’ll weaken the fabric and rust/discoloration can be a risk.
Considerations:
Cedar blocks / lavender sachets / and pantry moth traps are all smart preventative measures against pests destroying your collection. (see Pest Control / Prevention below). Just be sure they are at a slight distance from your clothes and not pressed up against them. Added caution: pantry moth traps have strong adhesives to capture the bugs. Do not, do not, do not put them anywhere where a piece of clothing can brush on it, it will destroy where it contacts. I keep mine on a shelf above the clothing inside my closet. On the floor is riskier in case you sweep a long hem into it. If you hang it, make sure it’s beyond being in contact with any fabric.
Dust can do major damage. For your heavily worn pieces during a season I would absolutely not recommend open hanging clothes racks. Unless you’re doing something like rotating out your pieces weekly into a closed closet or are neat as a pin and dust does not live where you do - closed closets or dust covers over the shoulders of pieces on hangers are important! Once dust settles into a piece it can speed up the degradation process (I think I read somewhere that it actually cuts it? Brutal, dust.) and at the very least discolor it. You also don’t want your pieces hanging out on an open rack where it can be sun damaged, promoting fade on exposed areas (we can all tell when that’s happened when finding pieces that are discolored on a strip down the sides or across the shoulders that follows hanging patterns. This fade damage also happens with dust when folded on a shelf for decades.) Cotton or linen garment bags are also a good idea for fabrics especially susceptible to dust (I’ve found this to be rayon crepes most especially). I’ve only used cotton and not linen and I couldn’t tell you which is specifically better, so I defer to the professionals (see links at the bottom). & all organic would be best, but wouldn’t that also be a perfect world? Just make sure it’s a quality preservation / archival bag - i.e non acidic.
Drawers:
When storing your pieces in drawers, consider the weight of the garment and delicacy of fabric. I wouldn’t fold a silk and put it beneath a heavy knit. For that matter, I wouldn’t fold a silk at all. I would very loosely roll it so there’s really no one point that is stressed with a hard fold. I have a rolling policy for nearly all my vintage, actually. Then I pack my pieces loosely in a drawer I’ve lined with archival tissue (I have vintage furniture that I’m not sure about how the wood was sealed so I figure it doesn’t hurt to take this precautionary step.) I also really like vintage satin lingerie bags / handkerchief bags for delicate pieces. Often times they’re lined with batting so it gives a little extra padded protection for really delicate pieces I don’t want getting any additional rubbing. I’ll say one thing, they truly knew how to store and take care of their belongings back in the day, so I often take their lead.
Long Term Storage
(seasonal storage or longer)
Always, always, always store your vintage clean whenever possible (see my reasons why in my Laundry Guide.) Here is where I take (even more) care and consideration when storing my vintage. For hanging in closets, make sure you have all proper hangers for appropriate fabrics/weights. If they’re going to be hanging a long time you want to make sure they won’t weaken. I actually won’t hang anything long term apart from sturdy coats. Make sure you have pest control / prevention steps in place (see below). Take care that pieces are not exposed to excess dust.
I actually much prefer to box my vintage using archival boxes. I know, it’s an investment, but I’m a collector and I only collect what I can maintain properly. And I absolutely will not use plastic or plastic tubs. I know a lot of people do but I also know vintage can be destroyed by plastic bag / tub storage (once you snap that lid closed it doesn’t breath either!) so I will never recommend it. Here is a link to the company I purchase my archival boxes from and I know a lot of museum collection managers use them as well. If you have rare or valuable vintage it’s worth the investment, trust me. When I box my pieces I take a few steps to ensure it’ll be able to be pulled out fresh and ready for a quick steam and then wear.
First is by storing it clean (please, please do this.)
Second is by determining if I need to roll up any tissue to support ornate areas of any pieces that need extra protection / padding out. (There are considerations to which type of tissue paper you use depending on fabric. Unbuffered for protein based fabrics - silks, wools and the like. Buffered is fine for everything else - as is my understanding - and always acid free archival. Here is some science behind buffered/unbuffered tissues.)
Third, make sure you do not place anything on top of anything else that will squish it. Try and give each piece it’s space.
Last, try and set it up so you can go in and easily inspect, refold / wrap pieces periodically. If you’re going for long haul storage and you don’t have museum temperature controlled conditions you definitely want to be able to get in and check on things.
Also consider strongly the climate in which you’re storing your vintage. Musty, dusty, hot attics are where you’ll see a lot of seasonal wardrobes but it’s a place I’d avoid. Also avoid damp basements. Mold is an absolute nightmare and often, if something has mold damage, it will leave permanent stains/scarring. I would recommend commandeering a hallway or spare bedroom closet and moving anything else stored in there that’s not climate sensitive, elsewhere.
Pest Control / Prevention
Be sure to check where you store your vintage often to catch any warning signs of infestation. I like the moth traps because they use a hormone to attract moths so if you see any on there you need to go through your pieces asap. Especially check wools, knits, cashmeres, and other natural fibers. Grown moths don’t eat your clothes, it’s the larvea that do all the damage. Look for small nibble holes. When bringing new pieces into your collection inspect them thoroughly! You do not want to bring in a pest that destroys all your other beautiful vintage. I read that only two varieties of moth actually eat through clothing, so don’t panic every time you see a moth in your house. I’ve also heard many preventative measures to kill anything you may suspect has an issue before bringing it into your closet ranging from freezing it to putting it in a bag in a hot car to fry whatever may be lurking within the fibers. I’ve never tried any of these, though I have heard the freezer trick is a solid bet (and I would not put vintage in a plastic bag and expose it to heat. Quickest way to destroy it. Never put it in plastic at all, actually.) I would also recommend vacuuming the pieces you’ve elected to freeze treat (after the deep freeze) as a means to remove anything that may have been hiding inside (ew). Also, I would never recommend mothballs. They’re loaded with chemicals and with longer term storage good luck every getting that smell out. Last word of advice, try to never pack out a storage space (at all, really) without first thoroughly inspecting each piece that could be problematic, and check your storage on a regular schedule. Cleanliness really is the first line of defense here.
Summary
I know a lot of what I’ve outlined here probably comes off as ‘you’re crazy to go to such lengths to take care of your vintage, it’ll all be fine folded in ye old drawer’ - and, maybe. It probably will be fine. But combined with the fact that I am a vintage seller, I’m the steward of some very rare and lovely pieces of vintage, I work incredibly hard to discover and afford these pieces so I’m going to take good care of them on top of the fact I’d like to see them outlive me and go on to be super supercentenarians, I take extra steps. You definitely don’t have to be as neurotic about it as me. Do what you can. This is all more or less food for thought on best practices. The more you know, right?
Endnote
If my taking the time to put together this storage guide was helpful and saved you any amount of time by not having to search out all this information on your own, answered any questions, or saved you from trial and error, I ask that you consider a small one time contribution to my Fashion Library archival efforts or joining my Patreon! Read more about it by clicking here. All funds will go towards the collection, storage (both physical and technological), and digitization of vintage and antique fashion magazines with the intention that they will one day be donated (either physical and/or digital form) and made available for educational purposes. It’s a passion project of mine, and an expensive one, but one I sincerely hope will be worth it as a learning tool now and into the future.
Below I’ve included a few links to extra information about cleaning textiles that I keep bookmarked.
I’m in no way associated, affiliated with, or sponsored by any company, person, or organization listed in the links below nor with any of the products recommended in this guide.
Additional articles with more information / Links from the above information
The science behind cedar. (https://www.inverse.com/article/39534-cedar-moth-repellant-science)
The archival storage company I buy my supplies from. (https://www.gaylord.com)
Buffed vs unbuffed tissue science. (https://www.nps.gov/museum/publications/conserveogram/04-09.pdf
*Disclaimer
General disclaimer - I am not a textile conservator, nor an expert in fabrics. I’m simply a vintage collector who takes care of her own vintage clothing the best way I’ve learned how. This advice is given as a general guide to help you assess what steps need to be taken to care for your own vintage and antique clothing. I’m not responsible or to be held accountable in any way for your vintage collection and how you choose to approach storage, even upon the use of any of the advice offered here. You are responsible for your own actions. Seek out additional information and/or professional advice before taking action, make judgements for yourself based on the needs of your collection.
Copyright © Sultry Vintage, 2024.